護(hù)膚“秘笈”在文末!
溫度顯示器上的數(shù)字攀升至86℃,蜂蠟、油脂與色素在加熱中逐漸融合,接著又被注入模具冷卻成型,一支由學(xué)生親手制作的口紅由此誕生......
近日,北京理工大學(xué)一門(mén)“學(xué)做化妝品”的通識(shí)課火了!
這門(mén)由化學(xué)與化工學(xué)院馮彩虹和王燁兩位老師主講的通識(shí)課《化妝品中的化學(xué)》,將科學(xué)原理與生活實(shí)踐深度融合,屢獲學(xué)生高口碑推薦。
The thermometer reads 86 C. Beeswax, oils, and pigments slowly fuse in the heat before being poured into a mold to cool and set. The result? A lipstick, crafted from scratch by a student.
This scene is part of a popular general education course at Beijing Institute of Technology: The Chemistry of Cosmetics. Taught by Feng Caihong and Wang Ye from the School of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, the class has earned high praise for blending scientific principles with hands-on practice.
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據(jù)中青網(wǎng),《化妝品中的化學(xué)》共32學(xué)時(shí),其中26學(xué)時(shí)聚焦理論,6學(xué)時(shí)落地實(shí)驗(yàn)。
“實(shí)踐環(huán)節(jié)”是這門(mén)課程的一大亮點(diǎn),以面膜制備為例,要求學(xué)生根據(jù)配方精準(zhǔn)配比多種成分掌握增溶、乳化、防腐等核心工藝,通過(guò)實(shí)驗(yàn)讓學(xué)生理解“配方科學(xué)”的精髓。
According to China Youth Daily, the 32-session course dedicates 26 sessions to theory and six to lab work. A highlight is the hands-on component. When making a face mask, for instance, students must precisely measure ingredients and master key techniques like solubilization, emulsification, and preservation, gaining insight into the science of formulation.
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更具價(jià)值的是課程的“生活導(dǎo)向”,課程引導(dǎo)學(xué)生運(yùn)用所學(xué)知識(shí),解讀護(hù)膚品成分表,回答“為什么有的護(hù)膚品會(huì)搓泥”“敏感肌如何選擇防曬產(chǎn)品”等實(shí)際問(wèn)題,讓化學(xué)真正成為點(diǎn)亮生活的實(shí)用工具。
The course also emphasizes practical life skills. Students learn to analyze ingredient lists and tackle real-world questions like "Why is my skincare pilling?" and "How should sensitive skin choose sunscreen?" — turning chemistry into a practical tool for everyday life.
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學(xué)校介紹,馮彩虹老師深耕化妝品基礎(chǔ)理論教學(xué),用生活案例拆解專業(yè)知識(shí),讓抽象概念變得直觀易懂,王燁老師則聚焦應(yīng)用教學(xué)與實(shí)驗(yàn)指導(dǎo),為學(xué)生詳細(xì)講解化妝品的核心技術(shù),對(duì)學(xué)生的實(shí)驗(yàn)操作給予精準(zhǔn)點(diǎn)撥。
Feng focuses on foundational theories, using everyday examples to make abstract concepts relatable. Wang concentrates on applications and lab guidance, offering detailed instruction on core cosmetic technologies and precise feedback on experimental techniques.
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王燁為學(xué)生講解實(shí)驗(yàn)注意事項(xiàng)
“化工改變世界,化學(xué)創(chuàng)造未來(lái)”是王燁一直以來(lái)都認(rèn)同的理念,她開(kāi)設(shè)這門(mén)課的初衷,正是希望讓大家通過(guò)DIY化妝品,真切感受化學(xué)的美與魅力。
在課堂上,她會(huì)用真實(shí)案例說(shuō)明“成分黨”如何科學(xué)護(hù)膚;課后,她會(huì)主動(dòng)解答學(xué)生的化妝品選購(gòu)疑問(wèn),鼓勵(lì)學(xué)生結(jié)合自身興趣,選擇兼顧健康安全性與個(gè)性審美需求的化妝品。
Wang, who believes that "chemical engineering changes the world, and chemistry creates the future", designed the course to let students experience the beauty of chemistry through DIY cosmetics. In class, she uses real-world examples to teach how to be an informed "ingredient-conscious" consumer. After class, she helps students navigate product choices and encourages them to select cosmetics that balance safety with personal preference.
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針對(duì)學(xué)生提出的“敏感肌護(hù)膚難題”,老師還會(huì)專門(mén)補(bǔ)充皮膚屏障修復(fù)的科學(xué)方法;面對(duì)大家對(duì)網(wǎng)紅產(chǎn)品的疑問(wèn),會(huì)組織成分對(duì)比分析活動(dòng),引導(dǎo)學(xué)生理性消費(fèi)。
不少學(xué)生表示,現(xiàn)在選購(gòu)化妝品時(shí)會(huì)主動(dòng)關(guān)注成分表,不再盲目追逐品牌與網(wǎng)紅推薦,課程的口碑在學(xué)生間廣泛傳播,“搶課秒空”成為常態(tài)。
When students raise concerns about sensitive skin, the instructors offer science-backed advice on skin barrier repair. When questions arise about trending products, they organize ingredient analyses to promote mindful consumption.
Many students say they now check ingredient lists before buying skincare, moving beyond blind trust in brands or influencers. The course is in such high demand that spots fill up almost immediately after registration opens.
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針對(duì)幾個(gè)課上常出現(xiàn)的熱門(mén)問(wèn)題,記者也問(wèn)了問(wèn)老師——
①護(hù)膚品為什么會(huì)出現(xiàn)搓泥?
護(hù)膚品搓泥主要有三個(gè)原因:一是成分不相容;二是護(hù)膚太心急;三是皮膚狀態(tài)不好。角質(zhì)層過(guò)厚或屏障受損,成分難鋪展、難吸收,更容易在表面團(tuán)聚搓泥。
想避免搓泥,其實(shí)很簡(jiǎn)單:慢一點(diǎn),輕一點(diǎn),少一點(diǎn)。每一步之間等上幾十秒,等皮膚“消化”一下再涂下一步;上臉的時(shí)候用手輕輕拍開(kāi),別來(lái)回揉搓;如果皮膚本身就敏感,就別往臉上疊太多層了。
② 敏感肌怎么護(hù)膚?怎么修復(fù)?
敏感肌很容易陷入一個(gè)惡性循環(huán)——皮膚越敏感,就越不敢護(hù)膚,或者越著急想換產(chǎn)品試試,結(jié)果反而讓屏障更受傷。那到底該怎么辦?
清潔做減法:晨起用32–35℃溫水沖洗即可,不用潔面;晚間選氨基酸、甜菜堿等溫和潔面,避開(kāi)皂基;暫停磨砂膏、潔面儀等清潔工具。
保濕做對(duì)事:神經(jīng)酰胺、角鯊?fù)椤⒎捍迹╒B5)都是修護(hù)好幫手。干敏肌選封閉性強(qiáng)的霜,油敏肌選輕薄乳,別為了清爽完全不涂。
防曬,遵循“安全優(yōu)先、減少刺激”原則:優(yōu)先打傘、戴帽、戴口罩等硬防曬;要用防曬就選以二氧化鈦、氧化鋅為主的物理防曬,溫和潔面就能洗干凈,不必額外卸妝。
還要避開(kāi)這些雷區(qū):遠(yuǎn)離高濃度酒精、合成香精、刺激性防腐劑;別頻繁敷面膜,避免角質(zhì)過(guò)度水合,讓屏障更脆弱。
特別提醒,一定要注意“1%分界線”——這是化妝品配方里的關(guān)鍵閾值。像防腐劑(苯氧乙醇、羥苯甲酯、山梨酸鉀等)、增稠劑(卡波姆、黃原膠等)、香精、色素這類(lèi)輔助成分,添加量大多不超過(guò)1%。
選購(gòu)“網(wǎng)紅產(chǎn)品”時(shí),這個(gè)規(guī)則能幫我們避開(kāi)“概念性添加”的坑:成分表中排在這些成分之后的活性物,含量基本也低于1%,很難真正起效。
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王燁老師表示,說(shuō)到底,護(hù)膚這件事,沒(méi)有標(biāo)準(zhǔn)答案,也沒(méi)有捷徑可走。它更像是我們和自己的皮膚慢慢磨合、互相了解的過(guò)程。
不用迷信大牌,也不用盲目跟風(fēng)。讀懂護(hù)膚背后的邏輯,找到適合自己的節(jié)奏,皮膚自然會(huì)用最好的狀態(tài)回應(yīng)你。
來(lái)源:中國(guó)青年報(bào) 北京理工大學(xué)
跟著China Daily
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