從Lach Earn出發(fā)開往高地最大的城鎮(zhèn)Fort William,雖然距離并不遠(yuǎn),但是車開起來很不容易,尤其我們想繞路高地底部最漂亮的地區(qū)Glencoe,還想?yún)⒂^這里的一個(gè)威士忌釀酒廠,買上幾瓶酒,結(jié)果就是車得坐輪渡過海,還有主路是單行寬度,錯(cuò)車的時(shí)候全靠司機(jī)使用自己一邊的過渡寬帶了。
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路邊寬出來的部分是錯(cuò)車區(qū)
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載我們車輛過海峽的輪渡
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威士忌釀酒廠
好在蘇格蘭人非常合作,常常主動(dòng)讓別人先過,錯(cuò)車的時(shí)候還不忘揮手致意,有時(shí)候也用錯(cuò)車寬帶讓后面的車先走(我們度假不趕時(shí)間慢慢看風(fēng)景所以開的慢),超車之后的車也不忘閃一下尾燈致意讓車的司機(jī)。
蘇格蘭人真的很有修養(yǎng),到了幾乎時(shí)時(shí)讓我感嘆的程度。
大約還有十分鐘到Fort William時(shí),會(huì)看到格倫芬南高架橋(Glenfinnan Viaduct)位于路邊不遠(yuǎn)處,這個(gè)蘇格蘭高地的高架橋建于1897年至1901年間,至今已經(jīng)有一百多年的歷史,作為《哈利波特》電影取景地之一,霍格沃茨特快列車在此橋飛馳而過,所以這里非常有名氣,但值得注意的是,蘇格蘭人很注意保持原始環(huán)境,因此這里絲毫沒有過度開發(fā),保持了原始的風(fēng)貌,只是停車要5英鎊,也沒有其他的門票什么。
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其實(shí)蘇格蘭高地很多地方都有這樣的高架橋,我就在離開湖邊別墅不久在路邊看到一個(gè)不知名的,沒有游人駐足,但依舊讓人有震撼之感。
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到達(dá)Fort William,你便根本無(wú)法錯(cuò)過本尼維斯山(Ben Nevis),因?yàn)樗蛠辛⒃谀阊矍埃浅汛T,它是不列顛群島以及英國(guó)本土最高的山峰,高1345米,本尼維斯山每年吸引大約100,000名登山者,但是由于絕大多數(shù)的游客缺少登山經(jīng)驗(yàn),加上多變的氣候,僅在1990年至1995年間就已造成了13宗登山死亡事故,所以這一次我也就只是看看,但未來我肯定要來這里登山的。
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離開Fort William繼續(xù)北上一小時(shí),就可以到達(dá)愛蓮朵娜城堡(Eilean Donan Castle),它坐落在三湖(Loch Long、Loch Alsh、Loch Duich)交界的一個(gè)小島上,小島與陸地之間由一座石橋連接,因?yàn)橐郎桨木壒剩吧貏e棒,被評(píng)為高地最美的城堡。
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如果還有時(shí)間的話,你一定不要錯(cuò)過天空島(Isle of Skye),距城堡四十幾分鐘的車程,它是蘇格蘭大陸以西內(nèi)赫布里底群島中最大也最北的島嶼,Isle of Skye是蓋爾語(yǔ),翻譯過來應(yīng)該是“迷霧中的島嶼”,因?yàn)镾kye和Sky兩個(gè)詞太像了,也被詩(shī)意地翻譯作天空島。
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在蘇格蘭的日子,我常說的一句話就是:上帝簡(jiǎn)直太偏愛蘇格蘭了,這里有美麗的山脈、澄清的島嶼、智慧的人民、美味的食物、有創(chuàng)造力的群體……我簡(jiǎn)直用完了我全部能找到的形容詞。
好友笑了,和我開玩笑說,你知道這里流傳的一個(gè)笑話嗎?可以谷歌搜一下看。
結(jié)果我找到了,看完開懷大笑(有些人讀下來可能感到不適,請(qǐng)慎選)。
原文我貼在下面,我只翻譯了和蘇格蘭有關(guān)的一段。
加布里埃爾問:這里是什么?
上帝說:這是蘇格蘭,地球上最漂亮的地方,有皚皚白雪蓋頂?shù)纳矫},無(wú)人涉足的河流,漂亮的小溪和讓時(shí)光駐足的湖泊,人們制造一種叫做生命之水的威士忌,蘇格蘭人還長(zhǎng)得好看,聰明而且幽默,會(huì)旅行全球,他們很會(huì)社交,工作努力,成績(jī)斐然,在世界上以成功的武士、工程師、發(fā)明家和開拓者聞名。
加布里埃爾發(fā)出一聲驚呼,但還是忍不住問:那你說的平衡在哪里?
上帝非常智慧地回復(fù):等下你看我安放在它身邊的王八蛋鄰居……(指英格蘭,獨(dú)舞注)
Once upon a time in the Kingdom of Heaven, God went missing for six days.
Eventually, Gabriel the archangel found him, resting on the seventh day.
He inquired of God, "Where have you been?"
God sighed a deep sigh of satisfaction and proudly pointed
downwards through the clouds,
"Look Gabriel, look what I've made."
Archangel Gabriel looked puzzled and said,
"What is it?"
"It's a planet", replied God, "and I've put LIFE on it. I'm going to call it Earth and it's going to be a great place of balance".
"Balance?" inquired Gabriel, still confused.
God explained, pointing to different parts of Earth. "For example,
Northern Europe will be a place of great opportunity and wealth while Southern
Europe is going to be poor; the Middle East over there will be a hot spot."
"Over there I've placed a continent of white people and over there is a continent of black people" God continued, pointing to different countries.
And over there, I call this place America. North America will be rich and powerful and cold, while South America will be poor, and hot and friendly.
And the little spot in the middle is Central America which is a hot spot.
Can you see the balance?"
"Yes" said the Archangel, impressed by Gods work, then he pointed to a small country in Northern Europe,
"What's that one?"
"Ah" said God. "That's Scotland, the most glorious place on Earth. There are beautiful snow capped mountains, untouched rivers, streams and lochs of exquisite, timeless beauty.
The people make a drink called Uisge Beatha or Whiskey which means "The Water of Life".
The people are good looking, intelligent and humorous and they're going to be
found travelling the world. They'll be extremely sociable, hard-working and high-achieving, and they will be known throughout the world as warriors, engineers, inventors and pioneers.
Gabriel gasped in wonder and admiration but then said
"You said there will be BALANCE!"
God replied wisely.
"Wait until you see the bastards I'm putting next to them!".
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